NOT SURE, JUST ASK…
E-Mail: firstname.lastname@example.org or Call 845-632-2729
Okay, here’s the deal… If you’re checking out a part on our website and there’s no pricing listed, it’s because the manufacture restricts us from publishing or advertising a discounted price online… All we can recommend is that you call or click “GET QUOTE!” You will not be disappointed.
Can an automotive dealership void your warranty?
Understanding the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act of 1975.
Nearly everyone has heard about someone who has taken a vehicle that has been modified with aftermarket parts to a dealer for warranty service, only to have the dealer refuse to cover the defective items. The dealer usually states that because of the aftermarket parts the warranty is void, without even attempting to determine whether the aftermarket part caused the problem.
This is illegal…
Vehicle manufacturers are not allowed to void the vehicle warranty just because aftermarket parts are on the vehicle. To better understand this problem it is best to know the differences between the two types of new car warranties and the two types of emission warranties.
When a vehicle is purchased new and the owner is protected against the faults that may occur by an expressed warranty – an offer by the manufacturer to assume the responsibility for problems with predetermined parts during a stated period of time. Beyond the expressed warranty, the vehicle manufacturer is often held responsible for further implied warranties. These state that a manufactured product should meet certain standards. However, in both cases, the mere presence of aftermarket parts doesn’t void the warranty.
There are also two emission warranties (defect and performance) required under the clean air act. The defect warranty requires the manufacturer to produce a vehicle which, at the time of sale, is free of defects that would cause it to not meet the required emission levels for its useful life as defined in the law. The performance warranty implies a vehicle must maintain certain levels of emission performance over its useful life. If the vehicle fails to meet the performance warranty requirements, the manufacturer must make repairs at no cost to the owner, even if an aftermarket part is directly responsible for a warranty claim, the vehicle manufacturer cannot void the performance warranty. This protection is the result of a parts self – certification program developed by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and the Specialty Equipment Market Association (SEMA).
In cases where such a failed aftermarket part is responsible for a warranty claim, the vehicle manufacturer must arrange a settlement with the consumer, but by law the new – vehicle warranty is not voided.
Overall, the laws governing warranties are very clear. The only time a new vehicle warranty can be voided is if an aftermarket part has been installed and it can be proven that it is responsible for an emission warranty claim. However, a vehicle manufacturer or dealership cannot void a warranty simply because an aftermarket equipment has been installed on a vehicle.
If a dealership denies a warranty claim and you think the claim falls under the rules explained above concerning the clean air act (such as an emission part failure), obtain a written explanation of the dealers refusal. Then follow the steps outlined in the owner’s manual. However, if this fails, then phone your complaint in to the EPA at (202) 233-9040 or (202) 326-9100.
If a dealer denies a warranty claim involving an implied or expressed new car warranty and you would like help, you can contact the Federal Trade Commission (FTC). The FTC works for the consumer to prevent fraudulent, deceptive and unfair business practices in the marketplace and to provide information to help consumers spot, stop and avoid them. To file a complaint, you can call toll-free, 1-877-FTC-HELP (1-877-382-4357), or use the online complaint form. The FTC enters Internet, telemarketing, and other fraud-related complaints into Consumer Sentinel, a secure, online database available to hundreds of civil and criminal law enforcement agencies worldwide.
Q) What does Dimpled mean?
A) Dimpled is a small recessed section in the handlebar control area that’s typical on 1983 and later Harley Davidson’s. Generally speaking Dimpled or non-Dimpled will have no bearing on Import Cruisers and either style can be used.
Q) What is does Knurled mean?
A) Knurled is a roughed up section on the Handlebar where the risers attach to in order to help prevent the handlebars from slipping. Unfortunately this Knurled area is centered for Harleys which use a 3.5″ spread for the risers. Most Metric Cruisers don’t use this spread. This means if you own a metric model with a 4″ spread and use a knurled handlebar, some of the Knurled area will show between the risers. The good news is Knurled isn’t required as risers can clamp down on smooth bars with enough force that they aren’t likely to move.
Q) I’m not sure which style to buy: Knurled, Dimpled or Plain?
A) We recommend Plain Chrome for Metric Cruisers. This means the bars are going to be the most universal fit for all models. Since there are no Knurles there’s no chance of seeing them protruding from the risers. Dimpled really makes no difference you can use either but it’s usually accompanied by Knurles thus our Plain recommendation.
Q) My stock throttle housing has a safety set pin. What should I do?
A) The set pin is used as a safety measure on some import bikes. It is there to help prevent the possibly of the entire throttle housing twisting or sliding off the bars. Not all models use this safety feature and as such most aftermarket handlebars won’t come drilled for it. If your model of bike has this set pin, your only option is drilling a similar size hole in the new handlebars to accept it.
Q) How are the measurements taken?
A) Height or Rise: We placed our handlebars on a table in a level rise and measured straight up from the table to the top point at the control ends (we did not measure at diagonally from the bar center to the control ends).
Pullback: Again with the bars on a table in a level rise, they are measured from the front side of the center mounting point to the furthest point back at the control end of the bars.
Center Width: Is measured the perfectly flat part of the center tubing section.
Width: Is measured from absolute control end tip to control end tip (w/o grips)
CUSTOM MADE CABLES:
Here’s the proper way to fit up new bars & measure for extended cables:
First select and purchase your new bars, once in hand mount your new bars into the risers. Leave all of the stock cables and brake lines connected on the lower end. Now with the bars in position you will easily see and be able to measure how much additional cable length will be need.. Once determined you provide us with the measurements as follows (Stock + added length, example stock + 3″) We will then custom make you new cables in either black or stainless steel to your newly specified lengths. Wiring should also be checked at this time as well.
TIRE FYI, DIRECTLY FROM OUR SUPPLIERS:
There are a lot of VERY DANGEROUS things consumers ARE and ARE NOT doing to their tires. Post them on your website, print them out and mail them to your customers. Whatever it takes to get the information in their hands.
Every ” 1 lb. ” of lower tire pressure equals 10 degree increase in tire temperature.
When customers bring in their bikes with “chunks of rubber” missing or ” tears or cracks” in the sidewalls, and they think…
” The tires are defective” , the culprit is LOW TIRE PRESSURE overheating the tire and causing it to fail.
A good rule of thumb for tire pressure is… put in the amount of pressure that the tire has posted on the sidewall. Different construction methods and materials – ( example – Nylon, Polyester, or Rayon cords ) ALL react, respond, and grow at different rates. If you compare recommended tire pressures between different tire manufacturers, and the air pressure numbers are different, it is due to different composition and construction methods.
Another Culprit could be a customer has a BAD AIR GAUGE. Example – consumer came to a rally complaining about the terrible wear patterns on his tire, we suggested his air pressure was too low, he pulled out his “stick air gauge” and the tire said 42lbs. like the tire said to run. We took out our calibrated, higher end, dial air gauge, and his tire came up 36lbs.
Do the math – 42lbs minus 36lbs = 6 lbs.
6 lbs. X 10 degree increase per 1 lb. of lower air = 60 degree hotter running tire than it is designed for.
NOW… add that to a 100 degree day, riding for 5 or 6 hours that day…
This means that the tire is not running anywhere close to the temperature it was designed for, and it is not holding the “form or shape” it was designed to run in to safely operate that motorcycle. What is going to be the end result? tread pattern cupping? sidewalls cracking? tread chunking?
SS Custom Cycle Team